Day Out: Berlin
A Day Out is the format that covers supporters and tifo culture around the world. Together with our photographer Francesco, I had the opportunity to witness madness at one of the big European city derby in April: The Battle of Berlin.
@bortoleffe
A Little Bit of History
The Berlin football derby is the match between the two most popular football clubs in the German capital, Hertha BSC and 1. FC Union Berlin. The rivalry between the two clubs dates back to the early 20th century, and the first official derby match was played on August 24, 1963.
Hertha BSC, also known as Hertha Berlin, was founded in 1892 and has a long history in German football. The club has won the German championship twice, in 1930 and 1931, and has also won the DFB-Pokal (German Cup) once, in 2001. Hertha plays its home matches at the famous Olympiastadion, a huge arena that has a capacity of over 74k spectators.
On the other hand FC Union Berlin, was founded in 1966 as a merger of several smaller clubs. Union has not had the same level of success as Hertha, but the club has a strong following and a reputation for being a ‘working-class’ club.
However last couple of years were different, with Union taking the lead and getting Euro Football back in the capital, thanks to their qualification to the conference league. Union plays its home matches at the Stadion An der Alten Försterei, a small but roaring stadium with a capacity of 22k spectators.
The Berlin derby is known for its intense atmosphere, with both sets of ultras creating a lively and passionate environment at the stadium. The match is also known for its political overtones, with Hertha often seen as the ‘establishment’ club, while Union is viewed as the "underdog" club with a more working-class fan base.
@bortoleffe
The Stadium
It was game day and the excitement was palpable as we boarded the famous S3 S-Bahn train in Berlin, the very one that inspired Paul Kalkbrenner's "train" track with its distinct sound of doors closing.
Tension filled the air as we sat among the fans, each adorned in their custom denim jackets emblazoned with logos, flags, and symbols. Some even sported cool black leather jackets adorned with beautifully embroidered bears, the symbol of Hertha and Berlin.
As we approached the Olympiastadion station, goosebumps ran down our spine as we remembered that this was the very stadium where Italy had won the World Cup in 2006. After a short walk, we stood in awe in front of the colossal Olympiastadion.
The Olympiastadion in Berlin is a true icon in the world of sports, having played host to some of the most significant events in German history. Built in the 1920, the stadium boasts a rich and varied history that is evident in its design and features.
The first thing that caught our eye was the architectural style. The stadium was designed by the German architect Werner March, and is considered a masterpiece of "National Socialist" architecture.
The monumental design is characterized by its massive colonnades and grand arches, evoking a sense of power and prestige. The bell tower serves as the centerpiece of the complex, and the stadium’s seating bowl is shaped like an ancient amphitheater, further emphasizing the grandeur of the structure.
The stadium was built for the 1936 Summer Olympics, which were held in Berlin and were meant to showcase the power and prestige of the Nazi regime.
The games were a major propaganda event for the regime, and the stadium played a central role. It was a powerful reminder of the history and significance of the venue.
@bortoleffe
Berlin Time
As game time approached, our stomachs began to growl, so we set off in search of sustenance. We made our way to one of the kiosks located at the entrance of the Olympiastadion, seeking out the advice of local fans for the best snacks the stadium had to offer.
We decided to try the classic Currywurst, a dirty and delicious sausage smothered in curry sauce, and the Bismarck fish sandwich, a cold and dry baguette filled with herring and raw onions.
While they were satisfying, we couldn't help but feel that Berlin's culinary offerings could be improved upon. To wash it all down, we grabbed a cold beer and headed over to the Hertha store, searching for one of those coveted custom denim jackets. Spoiler alert, you won’t find any.
With our bellies full and our thirst quenched, we made our way to our seats in the hard fan section. The atmosphere was electric from the moment the match began, with Union fans occupying an entire sector of the stadium and creating an unforgettable experience.
This was the first time we had the chance to spot them, and the energy they brought to the game was undeniable. As the match progressed, we couldn't help but feel grateful for the chance to experience the unique culture and traditions of Berlin's football scene.
@bortoleffe
The Atmosphere
Songs and chants from one side to the other, insults flew even near me. But nothing serious, just some player’s mom offended. All traditionally cool and as expected for such a big game, until the Union goal that blew up their sector. Wow what a blast! Finally the first red smoke bomb was lit, spectacular.
Smoke mingled with the crowd as the stadium began to shake from the time-hopping of Union fans. Here is the working class, super trained and singing loudly, we were thinking.
On the other hand, although the team was not performing at its best, the Hertha fans sang and shouted using drums. It felt like a real war. All very civilized, however, and we like it that way.
@bortoleffe
The result
The match ended 4-1 to Union. But we didn’t really care about the result. We came here for something else, the best match was played in the stands where the fans battled it out to the very end. We had fun, it was good football and Berlin deserves this football, being always associated to a low level of entertainment.
We can't wait to go back to see one of these matches hoping only for a slightly better snack offer. This was a Day Out.
